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How Zara’s strategy made her the queen of fast fashion

Table of contents, here’s what you’ll learn from zara's strategy study:.

  • How to come up with disruptive ideas for your industry.
  • How finding the right people is more important than developing the best strategy.
  • How best to address the sustainability question.

Zara is a privately held multinational clothing retail chain with a focus on fast fashion. It was founded by Amancio Ortega in 1975 and it’s the largest company of the Inditex group.

Amancio Ortega was Inditex’s Chairman until 2011 and Zara’s CEO until 2005. The current CEO of Zara is Óscar García Maceiras and Marta Ortega Pérez, daughter of the founder, is the current Chairwoman of Inditex.

Zara's market share and key statistics:

  • Brand value of $25,4 billion in 2022
  • Net sales of $19,6 billion in 2021
  • 1,939 stores worldwide in 2021
  • Over 4 billion annual visits to its website
  • Inditex employee count of 165,042 in 2021

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Humble beginnings: How did Zara start?

Most people date Zara’s birth to 1975, when Amancio Ortega and Rosalia Mera, his then-wife, opened the first shop. But, it’s impossible to study the company’s first steps, its initial competitive advantage, and strategic approach by starting at that point in time.

When the first Zara shop opened, Amancio Ortega already had 22 years of industry experience, ten years as a clever and hard-working employee, and 12 years as a business owner. Rosalia Mera also had 20 years of industry experience.

As an employee , Ortega worked in the clothing industry, first as a gofer and then as a delivery boy. He quickly demonstrated great talent for recognizing fabrics, understanding and serving customers, and making sound business suggestions. Soon, he decided to use his insights to develop his own business instead of his boss’s.

As a business owner , he started  GOA Confecciones  in 1963, along with his siblings, his wife, and a close friend. They started with a humble workshop making women’s quilted dressing gowns, following a trend at the time Amancio had noticed. Within ten years, that workshop had grown to support a workforce of 500 people.

And then, the couple opened the first Zara shop.

Zara’s competitive positioning strategy in its first year

The opening of the first Zara shop in 1975 wasn’t just a new store to sell clothes. It was the final big move of a carefully planned vertical integration strategy.

To understand how the  strategy was formulated , we need to understand Amancio’s first steps. His first business, GOA Confecciones, was a manufacturing business. He was supplying small stores and businesses with his products, and he wasn’t in contact with the end customer.

That brought two challenges:

  • A lack of insight into market trends and no direct consumer feedback about preferences.
  • Very low-profit margins compared to the 70-80% profit margin of retailers.

Amancio developed several ideas to improve distribution and get a direct relationship with the final purchaser. And he was always updating his factories with the latest technological advancements to offer the highest quality of products at the lowest possible price. But he was missing one essential part to reap the benefits of his distribution practices:  a store .

So, in 1972 he opened one under the brand name  Sprint . An experiment that quickly proved unsuccessful and, seven years later, was shut down. Although it’s unknown the extent to which Amancio put his ideas to the test, Sprint was a private masterclass in the retail world that gave Amancio insights that would later turn Zara into a global success.

Despite Sprint’s failure, Amancio didn’t abandon the idea of opening his own store mainly because he believed that his advanced production model was vulnerable and the rise of a competitor who could replicate and improve his system was imminent.

Adding a store to his vertical integration strategy would have a twofold effect:

  • The store would operate as a direct feedback source. The company would be able to test design ideas before going into mass production while simultaneously getting an accurate pulse of the needs, tastes, and fancies of the customers. The store would simultaneously reduce risk and increase opportunity spotting.
  • The company would have reduced operating costs as a retailer. Since the group would control all aspects of the process (from manufacturing to distribution to selling), it would solve key retail challenges with stocking. The savings would then be passed on to the customer. The store would have an operational competitive advantage and become a potential cash cow for the company.

The idea was to claim his spot in prime commercial areas (a core and persistent strategic move for Zara) and target the rising middle class. The market conditions were tough, though, with many family-owned businesses losing their customer base, giant players owning a huge market share, and Benetton’s franchising shops stealing great shop locations and competent potential managers.

So the first Zara store had these defining characteristics that made it the successful final piece of Amancio’s strategy:

  • It was located near the factory = delivery of products was optimized
  • It was in the city’s commercial heart = more expensive, but with access to affluence
  • It was located in the city where Ortegas had the most customer experience = knowing thy customer
  • It was visibly attractive = expensive, but a great marketing trick

Amancio’s team lacked experience and expertise in one key factor:  display window designing . The display window was a massive differentiator and had to be bold and attractive. So, Amancio hired Jordi Bernadó, a designer with innovative ideas whose work transformed display windows and the sales process.

The Zara shop was a success, laying the foundations for the international expansion of the Inditex group.

Key Takeaway #1: Challenge your industry’s conventional wisdom to create a disruptive strategy

Disrupting an industry isn’t an easy task nor a frequent occurrence.

To do it successfully, you need to:

  • Understand the prominent business mode of your industry and the forces that contributed to its development.
  • Challenge the assumptions behind it and design a radically different business model.
  • Develop ample space for experimentation and failures.

The odds of instantly conquering the industry might be low (otherwise, someone would have already done it), but you’ll end up with out-of-the-box ideas and a higher sensitivity to potential disruptors in your competitive arena.

Recommended reading:   How To Write A Strategic Plan + Example

How Zara’s supply chain strategy is at the core of its business strategy

According to many analysts, the Zara supply chain strategy is its most important innovative component.

Amancio Ortega and other senior members of the group disagree. Nevertheless, the Inditex  logistics strategy  is extraordinarily efficient and plays a crucial role in sustaining its competitive advantage. Most companies in the clothing retail industry take an average of 4-8 weeks between inception and putting the product on the shelf. The group achieves the same in an average of two weeks. That’s nothing short of extraordinary.

Let’s see how Zara developed its logistics and business strategy.

Innovative logistics: how Zara’s supply chain evolved

The logistics methods developed by companies are highly dependent on external factors.

Take, for example, infrastructure. In the early days of Zara, when it was expanding through Spain, the company considered using trains as a transportation system. However, the schedule couldn’t keep up with Zara’s needs, which had the goal of distributing products twice a week to its shops. So transportation by road was the only way.

However, when efficiency is a high priority, it shapes logistics processes more than anything else.

And for Zara, efficient logistics was – and still is – of the highest priority.

Initially, leadership tried outsourcing logistics, but the experiment failed and the company assigned a member of the house with a thorough knowledge of the company's operating philosophy to take charge of the project. The tactic of entrusting important big projects to employees imbued with the company’s philosophy became a defining characteristic.

So, one of Zara’s early strategic decisions was that each shop would make orders twice a week. Since the first store was opened, the company has had the shortest stock rotation times in the industry. That’s what drove the development of its logistics methods. The whole strategy behind Zara relied on quick production and distribution. And the proximity of manufacturing and distribution was essential for the model to work. So Zara had these two centers in the same place.

Even when the brand was expanding around the world, its logistics center remained in Arteixo, Spain, despite being a less-than-ideal location for international distribution. At some point, the growth of the brand, and Inditex as a whole, outpaced Arteixo’s capacity, and the decentralization question came up.

The debate was tough among leadership, but the arguments were strong. Decentralization was necessary because of:

  • Safety and security.  If there was a fire or any other crippling disaster there (especially on a distribution day), then the company would face serious troubles on multiple fronts.
  • Arteixo’s limitations.  The company’s center in Arteixo was reaching its capacity limits.

So the company decided to decentralize the manufacturing and distribution of its brands.

Initially, the group made the decision to place differentiated logistics centers where the management of its chain of stores was based, i.e. Bershka would have a different logistics center than Pull&Bear, although they were both part of the Inditex Group. That idea emerged after Massimo Dutti and Stradivarius became part of Inditex. Those brands already had that geographical structure, and since the group integrated them successfully into its strategy and logistics model, it made sense to follow the same pattern with its other brands.

Besides, the proximity of the distribution centers to the headquarters of each brand allowed them to consolidate them based on the growth strategy and purpose of each brand (more on this later).

But just a few years after that, the group decided to build another production center for Zara that forced specialization between the two Zara centers. The specialization was based on location, i.e. each center would manufacture products that would stock the shelves of stores in specific locations.

Zara’s  supply chain strategy  is so successful because it’s constantly evolving as the group adapts to external circumstances and its internal needs. And just like its iconic fashion, the company always stays ahead of the logistics curve.

File:HK CH 中環 Central 國際金融中心商場 IFC mall shop ZARA Clothing store April 2022 Px3 04.jpg

Zara’s business strategy transcends its logistics innovations

Zara’s business strategy relies on four key pillars:

  • Flexibility of supply
  • Instant absorption of market demand
  • Response speed
  • Technological innovation

Zara is the only brand in the Inditex group that is concerned with manufacturing. It’s the first brand in the clothing sector with a complete vertical organization. And the production model requires the adoption or development of the latest technological innovations.

This requirement is counterintuitive in the clothing sector.

Most people believe that making big investments in a market as mature as clothing is a bad idea. But the Zara production model is very capital and labor intensive. The technological edge derived from that investment gave the company, in the early days, the capability to manufacture over 50% of its own products while maintaining an extremely high stock rotation frequency.

Zara might be one of the best logistics companies in the world, but that particular excellence is a supporting factor, or at least a highly contributing factor, to its successful business strategy.

File:Barcelona (Passeig de Gràcia - Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes). Zara Building, formerly “Banco Rural y Mediterráneo”. 1953. Agustí Borrell Sensat, architect (25905793406).jpg

Zara’s business strategy is so much more than its supply chain strategy.

The company created the “fast fashion” term and industry. When other companies were manufacturing their collections once per season, Zara was adapting its collection to suit what people asked for on a weekly basis. The idea was to offer fashionable items at a fair price and faster than everybody else.

Part of its cost-cutting strategic priority was its marketing strategy. Zara didn’t – and still doesn’t – advertise like the rest of the clothing industry. Its marketing strategy starts with choosing the location of the stores and ends with advertising that the sales period has started. In the early years of the brand’s expansion, Amancio would visit potential store locations himself and choose the site to build the Zara shop.

The price was never an issue. If the location was in a commercial center, Zara would build its store there no matter how high the cost was because the company expected to recoup it quickly with increased sales.

Zara’s marketing is its own stores.

The strategy of Zara and her Inditex sisters

Despite Zara’s success (or because of it), Amancio Ortega created – or bought – multiple other brands that he included in the Inditex group, each one with a specific purpose.

  • Zara  was targeting middle-class women. ‍
  • Pull&Bear  was targeting young people under twenty-five years old with casual clothing. ‍
  • Bershka  was targeting rebel teens, especially girls, with hip-hop-style clothing. ‍
  • Massimo Dutti  was targeting both sexes with more affluence. ‍
  • Stradivarius  was competing with Bershka, giving Inditex two major brands in the teenage market. ‍
  • Oysho  was concentrating on women's lingerie. ‍
  • Zara Home manufactures home textiles and decor.

Pull&Bear  was initially targeting young males between the ages of 14 and 28. Later it extended to young females of the same age and focused on selling leisure and sports clothing. It has the slowest stock turnaround time in the group.

Bershka’s  target group was girls between 13 and 23 years of age with highly individualized tastes. Prices were low, but the quality average. Almost a fiasco in the beginning, it underwent a successful strategic turnaround becoming today one of the biggest growth opportunities for the group. And out of all the Inditex chains, Bershka has the most creative designs.

Massimo Dutti  was the first retail brand Amancio bought and didn’t create himself. Its strategy is very different from Zara, producing high-quality products and selling them at a high price. It’s an extension of the group’s offer to the higher end of the price spectrum in the fashion industry. It’s also the only Inditex chain brand that advertises regularly.

Stradivarius  was the second acquired brand, with the purchase being a defensive move. The chain shares the same target group with Bershka, making it, to this day, a direct competitor.

Oysho  started as an underwear and lingerie company. Its product lines evolved to include comfortable night and homewear along with swimwear and a very young children’s line. The brand’s strategy was aggressive from its conception, opening 286 stores in its first six years of existence.

Zara Home  is the youngest brand in the Group and the only one outside the clothing sector, though still in the fashion industry. It was launched with the least confidence and with immense prior research. An experiment to extend the Zara brand beyond clothing, it was based on the conservative view that Zara could extend its product categories only to textile items for the home. But it turned out that customers were more accepting of Zara Home selling a wide variety of domestic items. So the brand made a successful strategic pivot.

File:Zara Home Nagoya - China.png

Key Takeaway #2: The right people are more important than the best strategy

It might not be obvious in the story, but a key reason for Zara's and Inditex’s success has been the people behind them.

For example, a vast number of people in various positions from inside the group claim that Inditex cannot be understood without Amancio Ortega. Additionally, major projects like the development of Zara’s logistics systems and the group's international expansion had such a success precisely because of the people in charge of them.

Zara’s radically different model was a breakthrough because:

  • Its leadership had a clear vision and a real strategy to execute it.
  • People with a deep understanding of the company’s philosophy led Its largest projects.

Sustainability: Zara’s strategy to make fast fashion sustainable

Building a sustainable business in the fast fashion industry is a tough nut to crack.

To achieve it, Inditex has made sustainability a cornerstone of its business model. Its strategy revolves around the values of  collaboration ,  transparency,  and  innovation . The group’s ambition is to make a positive impact with a vision of prosperity for the planet and its people by transforming its value chain and industry.

Inditex’s sustainability commitments and strategy to achieve them

Inditex has developed a sustainability roadmap that extends up to 2040 with ambitious goals. Specifically, it has committed to

  • 100% consumption of renewable energy in all of its facilities by 2022 (report pending).
  • 100% of its cotton to originate from more sustainable sources by 2023.
  • 100% of its man-made cellulosic fibers to originate from more sustainable sources by 2023.
  • Zero waste from its facilities by 2023.
  • 100% elimination of single-use plastic for customers by 2023.
  • 100% collection of packaging material for recycling or reuse by 2023.
  • 100% of its polyester to originate from more sustainable sources by 2025.
  • 100% of its linen to originate from sustainable sources by 2025.
  • 25% reduction of water consumption in its supply chain by 2025.
  • Net zero emissions by 2040.

The group’s commitments extend beyond environmental issues to how its  manufacturing and supplying partners conduct their business . To bring its strategy to fruition, it has set up a new governance and management structure.

The Board of Directors is responsible for approving Inditex’s sustainability strategy. The  Sustainability Committee  oversees and controls all the proposals around the social, environmental, health, and safety impact of the group’s products, while the  Ethics Committee  makes sure operations are compliant with the rules of conduct. There is also a  Social Advisory Board  that includes external independent experts that advises Inditex on sustainability issues.

Finally, Javier Losada, previously the group’s Chief Sustainability Officer and now promoted to Chief Operations Officer, will be leading the sustainability transformation of the group. Javier Losada first joined Inditex back in 1993 and ascended its rank to reach the C-suite.

Inditex is dedicated to its commitment to reducing its environmental impact and seems to be headed in the right direction. The only question is whether it’s fast enough.

Key Takeaway #3: Integrating sustainability with business strategy is a present-day necessity

Governments and international bodies around the world are implementing more stringent environmental regulations, forcing companies to commit to ambitious goals and developing a realistic strategy to achieve them.

The companies that are impacted the least are those that always had sustainability as a  high priority .

From the companies that require significant changes in their operations to comply with the new regulations, only those who  integrate  sustainability into their business strategy and model will succeed.

Why is Zara so successful?

File:Zara Storefront (48155639387).jpg

Zara is the biggest Spanish clothing retailer in the world based on sales value. Its success is due to its fast fashion strategy that is based on a strong supply chain and quick market feedback loops.

Zara's customer-centric approach places a strong emphasis on understanding and responding to customer needs and preferences. This is reflected in the company's product design, marketing, and customer service strategies.

Zara made fashionable clothes accessible to the middle class.

Zara’s vision guides its future

Zara's vision, as part of the Inditex Group, is to create a sustainable fashion industry by promoting responsible consumption and production, respecting the environment and people, and contributing to the communities in which it operates.

The company aims to offer the latest fashion trends to its customers at accessible prices while continuously innovating and improving its operations and processes.

Growth by numbers (Inditex)

The Strategy Story

How Zara became the undisputed king of fast fashion?

Zara is one of the biggest international apparel brands. Zara invites customers from around 93 markets to its organization of 2000+ stores in upscale markets on the planet’s biggest urban communities. With these stores, Zara generates 18 billion Euros annually.

The brand has been fruitful in keeping up its central goal to give quick and reasonable designs in the world of fashion. Zara’s way to deal with configuration is firmly connected to its clients. This story is about how Zara became the undisputed king of Fast fashion.

Fashion is the imitation of a given example and satisfies the demand for social adaptation. . . . The more an article becomes subject to rapid changes of fashion, the greater the demand for cheap products of its kind. — Georg Simmel, “Fashion” (1904)

History of Zara: The Long Story Cut Short

Amancio Ortega launched the first Zara store in 1975 in Central Street in downtown A Coruna, Galicia, Spain. The main Store included low-value look-a-like designs of famous and better-quality dress styles. The store ended up being a triumph and Ortega Began opening more Zara stores throughout Spain.

During the 1980s, Ortega began changing the plan, assembling and dissemination cycle to diminish lead times and respond to new patterns in a snappier manner in what they called “Moment Fashions”.

In 1980 the company started its international expansion through Porto, Portugal in the 1990s, with Mexico in 1992. Since then Ortega has continued to grow and create brands such as Pull & Bear, Bershka , and Oysho . It has acquired groups like Massimo Dutti and Stradivarius . Even though these brands have been contributors to their parent group Inditex’s success, Zara is still the principal growth driver.

Zara’s Customer-driven Value Chain

Product line-up:.

Unlike other Inditex chains, Zara has focused on manufacturing fashion-sensitive products internally. The latest designs were continuously in production as per changing customer’s preferences. Many competitors were producing just a few thousand SKUs whereas Zara was producing several hundred of thousands of SKUs in a year. These SKUs varied as per color, size, and fabric.

Zara’s designs are not dependent on design maestros. Instead, its designers carefully observe the catwalk trends and try to implement them for the mass market. The design team continuously creates variations in a particular season. Thereafter expanding on successful designs.

Fast Supply Chain:

Zara’s flexible supply chain allows it to dispatch new ranges to shops two times per week from its central distribution center that is an approximately 400,000-square-meter facility located in Arteixo, Spain. This kind of business system called vertical integration eliminated the need for local warehouses. The strategy here was to reduce the “bullwhip effect”. Let’s see what the bullwhip effect is:

The bullwhip effect is a distribution channel phenomenon in which demand forecasts yield supply chain inefficiencies. It refers to increasing swings in inventory in response to shifts in consumer demand as one moves further up the supply chain. Wikipedia

Bullwhip effect

It was a matter of a few weeks and a new design was on the shelf for the customers. Isn’t cool? These designs of clothes and accessories were quickly moved to fancy stores in prime locations but at a cheap price. This strategy has attracted a lot of fashion yet money conscious customers.

We want our customers to understand that if they like something, they must buy it now because it won’t be in the shops the following week. It is all about creating a climate of scarcity and opportunity. Luis Blanc, one of the former Inditex’s international directors

Zara’s Retailing Strategy

Zara instead of focusing on improving its manufacturing efficiency focused on improving its retail strategy. This retailing strategy was about following fashion trends quickly even it means there is an unmet demand. As was previously discussed, this also helped Zara in creating a FOMO for its products. The two components of its retailing strategy were dependent on its upstream operations: Merchandizing and Stores.

Read: The Torchbearers of Sustainable Fashion

Merchandising.

Merchandising is the promotion of goods and/or services that are available for retail sale. It includes the determination of quantities, setting prices for goods and services, creating display designs, developing marketing strategies, and establishing discounts or coupons. Investopedia
  • Zara placed emphasis on the freshness of its designs. It wanted to create a sense of exclusivity. It never focused on creating bulk items of one design. Zara had confidence in its fast supply chain of twice a week shipment to the store with the latest designs. Thre quarter of its merchandise gets replaced in just a month. How about that?
The success of your business is based in principle on the idea of offering the latest fashions at low prices, in turn creating a formula for cutting costs: an integrated business in which it is manufactured, distributed, and sold. Amancio Ortega

Fun Fact : An average customer visits a Zara store 17 times in a year where the number is 3-4 times for its competitors.

  • Zara understood the importance of store locations very well. Zara prices are not expensive but its store location and design made its products look expensive. The brand wanted its customers to have a premium feel at a reasonable price.
We invest in prime locations. We place great care in the presentation of our storefronts. That is how we project our image. We want our clients to enter a beautiful store, where they are offered the latest fashions. Luis Blanc, one of the former Inditex’s international directors

Store Operations

Zara has stores in most upscale markets and shopping centers in the world. You name it and they have a store there. Champs Elysées in Paris, Regent Street in London, and Fifth Avenue in New York to name a few. As per its latest annual report the value of these properties is valued at almost 8 billion Euros. But the way these stores are managed is a strategy to learn for all retailers.

  • We all love grand stores with a lot of variety. Zara has emphasized on creating a grand image of its stores. Imagine a big store at a posh location. How much impressed you would be. The average size of Zara stores has continuously increased over the years. In 2001 the average store size was 910 sq.m whereas in 2018 the size has more than doubled.
Zara’s average store size has increased by 50%: from 1,452m2 in 2012 to 2,184m2 in 2018. That growth has been driven by new store openings – larger flagship stores – as well as the fact that many of the new openings have entailed the absorption of one or more older, smaller units in the same catchment area. Inditex Annual Report

  • Zara has tried to standardize the in-store experience with its store window displays and interior presentations. As the season progresses, Zara consistently evolves its interior themes, color schemes, and product placements. All these ideas come from the central team in Spain and regional teams implement with necessary region-based adaptations. So much so that the uniforms of the staff were selected twice in a season by a store manager from the latest collection.

red and black motor scooter parked beside brown brick wall

Anti-Marketing Approach of Zara

Zara has able to maintain profitability ~13% whereas its major competitor like H&M is at 6% . This has been possible not only because of its efficient supply chain we discussed above but also because of its no advertising or limited advertising policy.

This is what makes Zara really one of a kind. The organization just spends about 0.3% of deals on promoting and does not have a lot of advertising to discuss. The usual trend in the industry is to spend 3.5% on advertising. Zara never shows its clothes at expensive fashion shows also. It first shows its designs at stores directly. But why does not Zara believe in advertising? There are primarily two reasons:

  • First, as we discussed it saves Zara a lot of money. So much so that it has now one of the highest profitability.
  • Second, it brings exclusivity and prevents overexposure of a design. Customers feel like if they purchase a shirt at Zara, five others won’t have that equivalent shirt at work or school.

Read: Viral Marketing over the Long-Haul ft. Burger King

Zara is a perfect case study to learn the perfect operations strategy, perfect marketing strategy, perfect pricing strategy, and whatnot. It’s all strategies are so perfect. It is also a perfect example to understand how a traditional brand is evolving itself with time to stay relevant.

As per its annual report , In 2018, Zara launched its global online store, marking a milestone in its commitment to having all of its brands available online worldwide by 2020. Zara continued to earn global accolades for its collections and initiatives, its integrated shopping experience, and its commitment to sustainability, with over 90 million garments put on sale under the Join Life label.

Zara is just not a brand of fast fashion. Its much more than that now. And that’s why it’s actually the true king of fast fashion.

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The Secret of Zara’s Success: A Culture of Customer Co-creation

The Secret of Zara’s Success A Culture of Customer Co-creation - Martin Roll

Zara is one of the world’s most successful fashion retail brands – if not the most successful one. With its dramatic introduction of the concept of “fast fashion” retail since it was founded in 1975 in Spain, Zara aspires to create responsible passion for fashion amongst a broad spectrum of consumers, spread across different cultures and age groups. There are many factors that have contributed to the success of Zara but one of its key strengths, which has played a strong role in it becoming a global fashion powerhouse as it is today, is its ability to put customers first. Zara is obsessed with its customers, and they have defined the company and the brand’s culture right from the very beginning.

The Zara brand offers men and women’s clothing, children’s clothing (Zara Kids), shoes and accessories. The sub-brand Zara TRF offers trendier and sometimes edgier items to younger women and teenagers.

The Zara brand story

Zara was founded by Amancio Ortega and Rosalía Mera in 1975 as a family business in downtown Galicia in the northern part of Spain. Its first store featured low-priced lookalike products of popular, higher-end clothing and fashion. Amancio Ortega named Zara as such because his preferred name Zorba was already taken. In the next 8 years, Zara’s approach towards fashion and its business model gradually generated traction with the Spanish consumer. This led to the opening of 9 new stores in the biggest cities of Spain.

In 1985, Inditex was incorporated as a holding company, which laid the foundations for a distribution system capable of reacting to shifting market trends extremely quickly. Ortega created a new design, manufacturing, and distribution process that could reduce lead times and react to new trends in a quicker way, which he called “instant fashion”. This was driven by heavy investments in information technology and utilising groups instead of individual designers for the critical “design” element.

In the next decade, Zara began aggressively expanding into global markets, which included Portugal, New York (USA), Paris (France), Mexico, Greece, Belgium, Sweden, Malta, Cyprus, Norway and Israel. Today, there is hardly a developed country without a Zara store. Zara now has 2,264 stores strategically located in leading cities across 96 countries. It is no surprise that Zara, which started off as a small store in Spain, is now the world’s largest fast fashion retailer and is the flagship brand of Inditex. Its founder, Amancio Ortega, is the sixth richest man in the world according to Forbes magazine.

Today, Inditex is the world’s largest fashion group with more than 174,000 employees operating more than 7,400 stores in 202 markets worldwide including 49 online markets. The revenues of Inditex was USD 23.4 billion in 2019. The other fashion brands in the Inditex portfolio are:

Zara Home: Home goods and decoration objects founded in 2003. Operating in 183 markets, 70 of them with stores.

Pull & Bear: Casual laid-back clothing and accessories for the young founded in 1991. Operates in 185 markets, 75 of them with stores.

Massimo Dutti: High end clothing and accessories for cosmopolitan men and women acquired in 1995. Operates 186 markets, 74 of them with stores.

Bershka: Blends urban styles and modern fashion for young women and men founded in 1998. Operates in 185 markets, 74 of them with stores.

Stradivarius: Casual and feminine clothes for young women acquired in 1999. Operates 180 markets, 67 of them with stores.

Oysho: Lingerie, casual outerwear, lounge wear and original accessories founded in 2001. Operating in 176 markets, 58 of them with stores.

Uterqüe: High-quality fashion accessories at attractive prices founded in 2008. Operating in 158 markets, 17 of them with stores.

Apart from fashion brands, Amancio Ortega has also set up a global real estate investment fund, Pontegadea Inversiones, which manages corporate offices across 9 countries including United States (Seattle), Britain (London), France (Paris), Canada, Italy, South Korea. These corporate properties house large companies including Facebook, Amazon and Apple, and prestigious luxury and retail brands.

The Zara brand strategy

In 2019, Zara was ranked 29th on global brand consultancy Interbrand’s list of best global brands. Its core values are found in four simple terms: beauty, clarity, functionality and sustainability.

The secret to Zara’s success has largely being driven by its ability to keep up with rapidly changing fashion trends and showcase it in its collections with very little delay. From the very beginning, Zara found a significant gap in the market that few clothing brands had effectively addressed. This was to keep pace with latest fashion trends, but offer clothing collections that are a combination of high quality and yet, are affordable. The brand keeps a close watch on how fashion is changing and evolving every day across the world. Based on latest styles and trends, it creates new designs and puts them into stores in a week or two. In stark comparison, most other fashion brands would take close to six months to get new designs and collections into the market.

It is through this strategic ability of introducing new collections based on latest trends in a rapid manner that enabled Zara to beat other competitors. It quickly became the people’s favourite brand, especially with those who want to keep up with fashion trends. Founder Amancio Ortega is famously known for his views on clothes as a perishable commodity. According to him, people should love to use and wear clothes for a short while and then they should throw them away, just like yogurt, bread or fish, rather than store them in cupboards.

The media often quotes that the brand produces “freshly baked clothes”, which survive fashion trends for less than a month or two. Zara concentrates on three areas to effectively “bake” its fresh fashions:

Shorter lead times (and more fashionable clothes): Shorter lead times allow Zara to ensure that its stores stock clothes that customers want at that time (e.g. specific spring/ summer or autumn/ winter collections, recent trend that is catching up, sudden popularity of an item worn by a celebrity/ socialite/ actor/ actress, latest collection of a top designer etc.). While many retailers try to forecast what customers might buy months in the future, Zara moves in step with its customers and offers them what they want to buy at a given point in time.

Lower quantities (through scarce supply): By reducing the quantity manufactured for a particular style, Zara not only reduces its exposure to any single product but also creates artificial scarcity. Similar to the principle that applies to all fashion items (and more specifically luxury), the lesser the availability, the more desirable an object becomes. Another benefit of producing lower quantities is that if a style does not generate traction and suffers from poor sales, there is not a high volume to be disposed of. Zara only has two time-bound sales a year rather than constant markdowns, and it discounts a very small proportion of its products, approximately half compared to its competitors, which is a very impressive feat.

More styles: Rather than producing more quantities per style, Zara produces more styles, roughly 12,000 a year. Even if a style sells out very quickly, there are new styles waiting to take up the space. This means more choices and higher chance of getting it right with the consumer.

Zara only allows its designs to remain on the shop floor for three to four weeks. This practice pushes consumers to keep visiting the brand’s stores because if they were just a week late, all the clothes of a particular style or trend would be gone and replaced with a new trend. At the same time, this constant refreshing of the lines and styles carried by its stores also entices customers to visit its shops more frequently.

In the following sections, the key components of Zara’s winning formula in the fashion retailing industry are illustrated.

Customer co-creation: Zara’s principal designer is the customer

Zara’s unrelenting focus on the customer is at the core of the brand’s success and the heights it has achieved today. There was a fascinating story around how Zara co-creates its products leveraging its customers’ input. In 2015, a lady named Miko walked into a Zara store in Tokyo and asked the store assistant for a pink scarf, but the store did not have any pink scarves. The same happened almost simultaneously for Michelle in Toronto, Elaine in San Francisco, and Giselle in Frankfurt, who all walked into Zara stores and asked for pink scarves. They all left the stores without any scarves – an experience many other Zara fans encountered globally in different Zara stores over the next few days.

7 days later, more than 2,000 Zara stores globally started selling pink scarves. 500,000 pink scarves were dispatched – to be exact. They sold out in 3 days. How did such lightning fast stocking of pink scarves happen?

Customer insights are the holy grail of modern business, and the more companies know about their customers, the better they can innovate and compete. But it can prove challenging to have the right insights, at the right time, and have access to them consistently over time. One of the secrets to Zara’s success includes using Radio Frequency Identification Technology (RFID) in its stores. The brand uses cutting-edge systems to track the location of garments instantly and makes those most in demand rapidly available to customers. Additionally, it helps to reduce inventory costs, provides greater flexibility to launch new designs, and allows fulfillment of online orders with stock from stores nearest to the delivery location thereby reducing delivery costs.

Another secret of Zara’s success is that the brand trains and empowers its store employees and managers to be particularly sensitive to customer needs and wants, and how customers enact them on the shop floors. Zara empowers its sales associates and store managers to be at the forefront of customer research – they intently listen and note down customer comments, ideas for cuts, fabrics or a new line, and keenly observe new styles that its customers are wearing that have the potential to be converted into unique Zara styles. In comparison, traditional daily sales reports can hardly provide such a dynamic updated picture of the market. The Zara empire is built on two basic rules: “to give customers what they want”, and “get it to them faster than anyone else”.

Due to Zara’s competitive customer research capabilities, its product offerings across its stores globally reflect unique customer needs and wants in terms of physical, climate or cultural differences. It offers smaller sizes in Japan, special women’s clothes in Arab countries, and clothes of different seasonality in South America. These differences in product offerings across countries are greatly facilitated by the frequent interactions between Zara’s local store managers and its creative team.

In the fashion world, a trend starts small, but develops fast. Zara employees are trained to listen, watch and be attentive to even the smallest seismographic signals from their customers, which can be an initial sign that a new trend is taking shape. Zara knows that the quicker it can respond, the more likely it is to succeed in supplying the right fashion merchandise at the right time across its global retail chain. Zara has set up sophisticated technology driven systems, which enable information to travel quickly from the stores back to its headquarters in Arteixo in Spain, enabling decision makers to act fast and respond effectively to a developing trend. Its design teams regularly visit university campuses; nightclubs and other venues to observe what young fashion leaders are wearing. In its headquarters, the design team uses flat-screen monitors linked by webcam to offices in Shanghai, Tokyo and New York (the leading cities for fashion trends), which act as trend spotters. The ‘Trends’ team never goes to fashion shows but tracks bloggers and listens closely to the brand’s customers.

The fact that Zara’s designers and customers are inextricably linked is a crucial part of the brand strategy. Specialist teams receive constant feedback on the decisions its customers are making at every Zara store, which continuously inspires the Zara creative team.

Zara’s super-efficient supply chain

Zara’s highly responsive, vertically integrated supply chain enables the export of garments 24 hours, 365 days of the year, resulting in the shipping of new products to stores twice a week. After products are designed, they take around 10 to 15 days to reach the stores. All clothing items are processed through the distribution center in Spain, where new items are inspected, sorted, tagged, and loaded into trucks. In most cases, clothing items are delivered to stores within 48 hours. This vertical integration allows Zara to retain control over areas like dyeing and processing and have fabric-processing capacity available on-demand to provide the correct fabrics for new styles according to customer preferences. It also eliminates the need for warehouses and helps reduce the impact of demand fluctuations. Zara produces over 450 million items and launches around 12,000 new designs annually, so the efficiency of the supply chain is critical to ensure that this constant refreshment of store level collections goes off smoothly and efficiently.

Here are some of the characteristics of Zara’s supply chain that highlight the reasons behind its success:

Frequency of customer insights collection: Trend information flows daily into a database at head office, which is used by designers to create new lines and modify existing ones.

Standardization of product information: Zara warehouses have standardised product information with common definitions, allowing quick and accurate preparation of designs with clear manufacturing instructions.

Product information and inventory management: By effectively managing thousands of fabric, trim and design specifications and their physical inventory, Zara is capable of designing a garment with available stock of required raw materials.

Procurement strategy: Around two-thirds of fabrics are undyed and are purchased before designs are finalized so as to obtain savings through demand aggregation.

Manufacturing approach: Zara uses a “make and buy” approach – it produces the more fashionable and riskier items (which need testing and piloting) in Spain, and outsources production of more standard designs with more predictable demand to Morocco, Turkey and Asia to reduce production cost. The more fashionable and riskier items (which are around half of its merchandise) are manufactured at a dozen company-owned factories in Spain (Galicia), northern Portugal and Turkey. Clothes with longer shelf life (i.e. the one with more predictable demand patterns), such as basic T-shirts, are outsourced to low cost suppliers, mainly in Asia. Even when manufacturing in Europe, Zara manages to keep its costs down by outsourcing the assembly workshops and leveraging the informal economy of mothers and grandmothers.

Distribution management: Zara’s state-of-the-art distribution facility functions with minimal human intervention. Optical reading devices sort out and distribute more than 60,000 items of clothing an hour.

In addition to these supply chain efficiencies, Zara can also modify existing items in as little as two weeks. Shortening the product life cycle means greater success in meeting consumer preferences. If a design does not sell well within a week, it is withdrawn from shops, further orders are canceled and a new design is pursued. Zara closely monitors changes in customer preferences towards fashion. It has a range of basic designs that are carried over from year to year, but some in-vogue, high fashion, inspired by latest trends items can stay on the shelves for less than four weeks, which encourages Zara fans to make repeat visits. An average high-street store in Spain expects customers to visit thrice a year, but for Zara, the expectation is that customers should visit around 17 times in a year.

This expectation for such a high frequency of repeat visits is evidence of Zara’s confidence that it is keeping on top of changing consumer needs and preferences and is helping them shape their ideas, opinions and taste for fashion. In reality, Zara is also helping in giving birth to new trends through its stores or even helping in extending the longevity of some seasonal styles by offering affordable lines.

Sustainability at the core of Zara’s operations

Sustainability has been a hot topic in business for the last decade and is now quickly becoming a must-have hygiene factor for companies that want to resonate with and win the loyalty of its global customers. For Inditex, this means having a commitment to people and the environment.

Commitment to people: Inditex ensures that its employees have a shared vision of value built on sustainability through professional development, equality and diversity and volunteering. It also ensures that its suppliers have fundamental rights at work and by initiating continuous improvement programs for them. Inditex also spends over USD 50 million annually on social and community programmes and initiatives. For example, its “for&from” programme which started in 2002 has enabled the social integration of people with physical and mental disabilities, by providing over 200 stable employment opportunities across 15 stores.

Commitment to environment: Being in a business where it taps on natural resources to create its products, Inditex makes efforts to ensure that the environmental impact of its business complies with UNSDGs (United Nations Sustainable Developmental Goals). Inditex has pledged to only sell sustainable clothes by 2025 and that all cotton, linen and polyester sold will be organic, sustainable or recycled. The company also runs Join Life, a scheme which helps consumers identify clothes made with more environmentally friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester.

Additionally, Inditex takes wide-ranging measures to protect biodiversity, reduce its consumption of water, energy and other resources, avoid waste, and combat climate change. For example, it has outlined a Global Water Management Strategy, specifically committing to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. It has also been expanding its waste reduction programme through which customers can drop off their used clothing, footwear and accessories at collection points in 2,299 stores in 46 markets today.

Zara’s culture: The word “impossible” does not exist

Zara has a very entrepreneurial culture, and employs lots of young talent who quickly climb through the ranks of the company. Zara promotes approximately two-thirds of its store managers from within and generally experiences low turnover. The brand has no fear in giving responsibility to young people and the culture encourages risk-taking (as long as learning happens) and fast implementation (the mantra of fashion).

Top management gives its store managers full liberty and control over their store’s operations and performance with clearly set cost, profit and growth targets with a fixed and variable compensation scheme. The variable component amounts to up to half of the total compensation – making store level employees heavily incentive-driven.

In addition, once an employee is selected for promotion, his or her store develops a comprehensive training program for that individual with the human resources department, which is followed up by periodic supplemental training – reflecting Zara’s commitment to talent development. The organizational structure is also flat with only a few managerial layers.

Customers are the most important source of information for Zara, but like any other fashion brand, Zara also employs trend analysts, customer insights experts, and retains some of the best talents in the fashion world. The creative team of Zara comprises of over 200 professionals. They all embody and enact the corporate philosophy that the word “impossible” does not exist in Zara.

For example, while many companies struggle with long lead times in discussions and decision making, Zara gets around this challenge by getting various business functions to sit together at the headquarters and also by encouraging a culture (through structures and processes) where people continuously talk to each other. The sales and marketing teams who receive trend feedback talk regularly with designers and merchandisers. It is important that there is constant two-way communication so that sales and marketing teams can talk about new lines to customers and designers / merchandisers have a strong visibility of customers’ needs and preferences enacted at a store level. The production scheduling is also closely coordinated so that there is no time wasted on approvals. The design team structure is very flat and focuses on careful interpretation of catwalk trends that are suitable for the mass market – the Zara customer. The design and product development teams, who are based in Spain, work closely to produce 1,000 new styles every month.

Besides being customer centric, another important reason why Zara’s employee strategy is so successful is the fact that it empowers its staff to make decisions based on data. Zara has no chief designer. All its designers are given unparalleled independence in approving products and campaigns, based on daily data feeds indicating which styles are popular.

Due to the unwavering focus on the customer, the entire business model is designed in such a way that the pattern of needs for the finished goods dictate the terms of the production process to follow, instead of having the raw materials determine the nature of the production process – something that is very rare in multinational companies of similar scale.

In sum, the entire brand culture is extremely customer-centric, which has been and continues to be a significant contributor to Zara’s success.

The Zara brand communication strategy

Zara has used almost a zero advertising and endorsement policy throughout its entire existence, preferring to invest a percentage of its revenues in opening new stores instead. It spends a meager 0.3 per cent of sales on advertising compared to an average of 3.5 per cent by competitors. The brand’s founder Amancio has never spoken to the media nor has in any way advertised Zara. This is indeed the mark of a truly successful brand where customers appreciate and desire the brand, which is over and above product level benefits but strongly driven by the brand experience.

Instead of advertising, Zara uses its store location and store displays as key elements of its marketing strategy. By choosing to be in the most prominent locations in a city, Zara ensures very high customer traffic for its stores. Its window displays, which showcase the most outstanding pieces in the collection, are also a powerful communication tool designed by a specialized team. A lot of time and effort is spent designing the window displays to be artistic and attention grabbing. According to Zara’s philosophy of fast fashion, the window displays are constantly changed. This strategy goes down to how the employees dress as well – all Zara employees are required to wear Zara clothes while working in the stores, but these “uniforms” vary across different Zara stores to reflect socio-economic differences in the regions they were located. This effectively communicates Zara’s focus on the mass market, yet another detail that reflects its close attention on the customer.

To tap into the emerging e-commerce trend, Zara launched its online boutique in September 2010. The website was initially available in Spain, the UK, Portugal, Italy, Germany and France, and was extended to Austria, Ireland, the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg. Over the next 3 years, the online store became available in the United States, Russia, Canada, Mexico, Romania, and South Korea. In 2017, Zara’s online store launched in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and India. More recently in March 2018, the brand launched online in Australia and New Zealand. Today, its online store is available in 66 countries. As of 2019, online sales grew to constitute 14% of Zara’s total global sales.

As a fast fashion retailer, Zara is definitely aware of the power of e-commerce and has built up a successful online presence and high-quality customer experience.

Zara’s future brand and business challenges

Charting a new digital strategy in the COVID-19 crisis: With its primarily offline shopping experience, Zara has been hard hit by global store closures amid the COVID-19 crisis in 2020, with sales falling 44% year-on-year in Q1 2020 and the company reporting a net loss of USD 482 million. Inditex has announced that it will be closing between 1,000 to 1,200 stores worldwide, focusing on smaller ones in Asia and Europe. While online sales have been encouraging – Zara’s online sales for Q1 2020 grew 50% – it is not enough to mitigate the damage.

Amancio Ortega plans to spend USD 1.1 billion scaling up its digital strategy and online capabilities by 2022 and a further USD 2 billion in stores to improve integration between online and offline for faster deliveries and real-time tracking of products. Its goal is for online sales to constitute at least 25% of total sales. To achieve this goal, Zara will need to think of new ways to engage its customers digitally, not just through its online store, but through online communities and social media.

Mobile commerce: Zara woke up late to the potential of mobile commerce and needs to catch up fast with competitors. Different forms of market analysis strongly point towards a scenario wherein spends on mobile commerce will overtake desktop based ecommerce by 2021. On an average, most brands currently get about 15-20% of their website traffic via mobile devices and this is growing rapidly. With the deluge of investments planned in the mobile commerce space and Zara’s competitors already having an advantage on the mobile front, Zara needs to quickly make mobile shopping not only an effortless experience but also a delightful one.

Price is not an advantage anymore: Offering the latest fashion lines at affordable prices continues to be a strategic advantage for Zara, but cannot continue to be the only one. Across the world, and closer to home in Europe, competitors are cutting prices and refining their business models to cut the competitive advantage that Zara has. Swedish fast fashion retailer H&M, which is placed #30 just behind Zara on Interbrand’s list, launched an online store in Spain in 2014 to take own Zara in its home turf. Again in its home market, it now faces increasing competition from brands like Mango, which cut prices and started focusing on fashion segments in which Zara enjoyed popularity. In addition to H&M and Mango, other competitors like Gap and Topshop are all fighting for a share of the fast fashion retail market pie. Also with the rise of e- and m-commerce, the number of indirect competitors has mushroomed. We now have online fashion aggregators that bring in multiple brands under one single online platform and cut through borders and price segments. Some examples of such aggregators who are doing well include Lyst, Farfetch, Spring and Yoox Net-a-Porter.

For Zara to effectively compete and maintain its strategic advantage, the focus needs to shift away from price but towards quality. Even today the Zara brand enjoys high levels of appeal, which is evident by the serpentine queues outside its stores when it launches in new markets. There is a need for Zara to start investing in building a strong brand positioning and aggressively communicate it. Additionally, Zara needs to adopt, imbibe and leverage social media and digital platforms in its advertising and communication strategies deeper going forward.

Need for marketing strategy to evolve: As discussed above, Zara does not engage in advertising and instead uses its store locations as a marketing strategy. However, brand communication is crucial in attracting new customers to the brand to support its growth. Without advertisements, Zara relies heavily on word of mouth or social media. This causes the perception of potential customers towards Zara to be heavily shaped by family and friends, which may not be accurate. In addition, Zara’s social media platforms such as Facebook and YouTube exists merely as a feed for updates rather than a platform that consumers can interact with. Its videos on YouTube are also seeing very low viewership in comparison with its follower count, which is not ideal as videos are a powerful medium for brands in the fashion industry. This is a gap that Zara needs to plug immediately as the reach and impact of social media marketing gets stronger. As Zara’s target customer segments start using more social and digital platforms for communication and for sharing their lives, it is important for Zara to have a strong presence on such platforms.

Family business planning and succession: With various technological and business disruptions in the past decade, leadership in the 21st century will be influenced by constant change, geopolitical volatility, and economic and political uncertainty. For Zara’s first 36 years in business, the brand has been controlled by its founder Amancio Ortega, who is currently 85 years old. In 2011, Ortega passed the chairman title on to Pablo Isla, Zara’s Deputy CEO since 2005.

Succession is currently taking place at Inditex and generational transfer will empower the next generation in one of the wealthiest business families in the world. Pablo Isla, chairman of Inditex since 2011, steps down in April 2022, and 37-year-old Marta Ortega will take over as chair in the company that her father Amancio Ortega started with his ex-wife Rosalia in 1975 in Galicia, Spain. Marta Ortega is the youngest of Amancio Ortega’s three children.

Marta Ortega will become a non-executive chair, and will head the Inditex group, the portfolio of companies including supervision of strategic operations. She has been with Inditex for over 15 years, starting out working in a Zara store at King’s Road in London, and as an assistant at the portfolio brand Bershka. In recent years, Marta Ortega has been involved in strategy, brand building and fashion proposals for the Inditex portfolio of brands.

Marta Ortega will not be involved in daily management of the financial performance to shield her and the family from too much public exposure. Amancio Ortega has always been known for appearing less in public and avoiding any media exposure. His photo did not appear in the Inditex annual report until 2000. Marta Ortega seems to be more open to media interviews and public appearance, and granted her first interview with Wall Street Journal in August 2021.

Óscar García Maceiras will be appointed CEO of Inditex in April 2022 and will run the daily business. He joined Inditex in March 2021 and is currently general secretary of Inditex and secretary of the board.

The sharing of executive powers between the chair and the CEO to enhance corporate governance has historically been less common in the corporate world in Spain but is often seen in Europe and elsewhere. Inditex will therefore return to dual leadership in April 2022 with Marta Ortega as chair and García Maceiras as CEO, the very same structure that ran for six years with Amancio Ortega as chairman and Pablo Isla as CEO until 2011.

Despite working at Inditex for over 15 years, Marta Ortega Pérez does not hold an office. Her father, Amancio Ortega, never had an office either and always preferred to work in an open space in the fashion design department to be close to teams around him.

To effectively manage the above changes, Zara’s next generation leadership needs to step up to the succession planning challenge by being resilient in staying true to the brand promise to consistently produce “freshly baked clothes” for its fashion-forward consumers, and by balancing both short-term (profitability) and long-term goals (growing the business and reaching more consumers).

More importantly, despite Zara’s global reach and consequent product standardization, it needs to constantly find new ways to serve local fashion needs and preferences of its consumers across the globe. This will be a challenge for the brand’s leadership in the next decade.

Conclusion: Take Zara’s cue and listen to your customers

The Zara brand was born with a keen eye on its customer – its ability to understand, predict and deliver on its customers’ preferences for trendy fashion at affordable prices. In addition to its effective supply chain, the brand’s ability to have its customers co-create designs is unique and provides it with a competitive advantage. Most fashion trends often start unexpectedly, originate from uncommon places and grow out of nowhere. With reference to the pink scarf trend mentioned above, it could have been that Hollywood actress Scarlett Johansson had worn a pink scarf to a charity gala the evening before in Los Angeles, or golf star Michelle Wie had showcased a pink scarf at a celebrity tournament in Asia. The fact that Zara was able to quickly jump on to this trend and provide hundreds of customers with the pink scarves they desperately wanted to buy.

In a world swamped with Big Data, and yet more collected at an even more rapid pace than before, brands still need to be careful and observant. Big Data does not provide answers to all business challenges, and it may be too hyped to be considered as the Holy Grail.

One of the secrets behind Zara’s global success is the culture and the respect for the fact that no one is a better, authentic trendsetter than the customer himself or herself – and this philosophy needs to be continually reflected in all its business strategies going forward.

So, why not consult your customers for a start? Zara always does.

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Zara: Technology and User Experience as Drivers of Business

The Spanish clothing retailer Zara became a market leader thanks to a business model that leans heavily on technological innovation and user experience. One of the keys to Zara’s success is big data. For example, the company uses neighborhood-level average weight statistics to determine which garment sizes to ship to each store. Each location carries a different selection: stores in business districts are stocked with officewear, while stores in popular leisure areas tend to focus on clothes for younger women. Data analysis allows Zara to personalize the customer experience and minimize its inventory. The company has also developed an unparalleled e-commerce model. The next challenge in Zara’s sights is energy sustainability.

Zara is the leader in its market, thanks to a pioneering technological strategy. By adapting to new tools—including big data—the Spanish clothing retailer has managed to outpace its direct competitors. Despite being one of the last fashion companies to take up e-commerce, Zara has achieved a universal shopping experience that encompasses both its brick-and-mortar locations and its online stores. Other companies have tried to emulate this experience, but never with the same results.

Zara tecnologia y experiencia de usuario como motores del negocio

Zara’s success is based on a rather unusual premise: its founder, Amancio Ortega, has managed to become one of the world’s richest people without monopolizing a sector. The clothing retailer’s business model leans heavily on technological innovation and user experience. The firm has doubled in size in just ten years, shattering the forecasts of analysts who thought the firm could never achieve such a feat without overhauling its business plan to centralize its processes.

As the flagship brand of the Inditex group, Zara is synonymous with clothing and fashion. The aim of Ortega’s company is to give society what it wants as quickly as possible. Zara therefore changes its collections every two weeks. To put this strategy into perspective, look no further than Mango or Gap: these competitors renew their collections about six times a year. Although most fashion experts consider Zara’s model to be unsustainable—due to its supposed high cost—the company has managed to grow steadily year after year, leaving its competitors in the dust.

Another key element of Zara’s business model is how it manages its stores and manufactures its garments. The same strategy is applied for all locations across the globe, from Argentina to Australia. Zara produces its clothing in limited runs—no more than 8,000 pieces for any particular design. This system allows the company to change its collections quickly. If a particular design sells well, the company manufactures more garments in similar styles, but never exactly the same as the one that originally flew off the shelves. Moreover, thanks to Zara’s sister brands—Bershka, Pull&Bear, etc.—the Inditex group is able to cover all age ranges and styles and maintain an even bigger presence in the textile industry.

Zara’s business model leans heavily on technological innovation and user experience, allowing the firm to double in size in just ten years.

Just like a tech firm

If Zara’s approach is all about manufacturing clothes, how did it become such a clear market leader? And why are its competitors unable to catch up? These questions must be answered from multiple angles. There is no single explanation, just an answer that, a priori, is difficult to imagine. We must come to realize that Inditex is actually a large tech firm. For more than 30 years, Amancio Ortega has been making investments on a scale not seen anywhere else in the fashion industry. In this sense, the company has a five-year lead over all of its competitors. Among other advantages, it has logistical mechanisms that would be nearly impossible for any other firm to copy.

Arteixo, in the Spanish region of Galicia, is the company’s operations hub. This small town is the nerve center for the vast majority of Inditex’s decisions and processes—including tech-related matters, for which the company has built a specific facility. From this headquarters, technology allows Zara’s executives to monitor each store’s ambient temperature, energy consumption, and much more. Indeed, this is one of the keys to Zara’s success: big data. Thanks to data analysis, the company even knows the average weight of residents in each store’s neighborhood. The company uses these figures to determine what sizes of each garment to ship to each establishment. In short, Zara has the predictive capacity to determine what sorts of products will be easiest to sell.

The immediate result of this good technology use is savings in inventory—a major expense for many fashion companies. The company’s investment in big data also allows it to personalize the customer experience. In Madrid, for example, Zara has two stores with barely any overlap in terms of the clothes they sell. The business-oriented location on Paseo de la Castellana is amply stocked with suits and shirts, while the Gran Via store focuses on knitwear for women between the ages of 20 and 40. Data analysis provides the rationale for these strategies . Zara understands the peculiar demand of each neighborhood and knows how to satisfy it. The company is in close contact with the customer’s needs and offers a practically personalized user experience.

The immediate result of this good technology use is savings in inventory—a major expense for many fashion companies.

A nearly physical online experience

It took Zara longer than most other fashion retailers to enter the online channel. Once it overcame this barrier, however, it designed an unparalleled model. Inditex does not view the Internet as a separate channel from its physical stores; it is equally important. Inditex offers its customers the same services through both e-commerce and its traditional establishments. For example, even if a garment is out of stock, the customer can still purchase it and either have it delivered or pick it up at the store. Other firms have tried—without the same success—to copy this omnichannel model.

One of the major challenges that Zara will have to face in the future—besides competing with more e-commerce vendors—is energy sustainability. Statistics clearly show that the textile industry is the second biggest source of pollution worldwide. Technology and big data are now allies: they can find key areas for energy savings and identify recycled materials that offer the same characteristics as new ones. Zara is investing considerable resources in this endeavor. The company is working with universities in Galicia and companies in Switzerland to become more environmental friendly, as this factor will only become more crucial over the coming years.

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Zara Case Study (Porter Business Strategy): How Zara Competes

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Zara is one of the most successful clothing companies of all time. What exactly does it do to succeed?

Learn more in Michael Porter’s case study of Zara. We’ll discuss how Zara’s unique choice of activities gives it such a large advantage in getting fast fashion to its stores in record time.

The Zara Case Study and the Activity System Map

The Zara case study shows how Zara’s different activities fit. To visualize the strength of fit between activities, place the activities on a map.

  • Start by placing the key components of the value proposition.
  • Make a list of the activities most responsible for competitive advantage
  • Add each activity to the map. Draw lines wherever there is fit: when the activity contributes to value proposition, or when two activities affect each other

Here’s an example for IKEA:

zara website case study

A densely interconnected activity map is a good sign. A sparsely connected map shows weak strategy.

The activity map isn’t useful just for description of your current strategy. It can also be used for ideation for new strategies . Can you see how Porter’s Zara case study applies to these strategies?

  • Can you improve fit between activities? 
  • Can you find ways for an activity to substitute for another?
  • Can you find new activities or enhancements to what you already do?
  • Are there new products or features you can offer because of your activity map, that rivals will find difficult to emulate?

Case Study: Zara

Porter’s Zara cast study examines the strategy of Zara. Fast fashion brand Zara is another strategy powerhouse. It aims to get styles from runway to store within weeks, price affordably, and refresh its stores’ inventory every 2 weeks. The Zara case analysis shows that to achieve this, it shows tailored activities and strong fit:

  • A larger design team (double that of H&M’s) quickly translates innovative fashion seen in high fashion and clubs into affordable designs. This reduces time from inspiration to production. 
  • It does its own manufacturing in Europe, instead of outsourcing to Asia. This reduces shipping time and allows for tighter control of quality.
  • It owns its own delivery trucks, optimized for frequent shipments to stores.
  • Garments are delivered ticketed and hung on racks (instead of folded and boxed), costing more to deliver but reducing time to hitting the store floor.
  • It rents large stores in high-traffic places, attracting natural foot traffic. This also reduces normal advertising costs.
  • It adds new styles to stores in limited quantities every 2 weeks, encouraging a high rate of return and compulsive shopping to buy before they’re gone.

Once again, observe how a rival clothing brand would find it very difficult to compete in fast fashion without adopting the whole set of activities. It might try to design clothes quickly, but without all the reinforcing activities in manufacturing and logistics, its new inventory would arrive in stores ready to sell far later than Zara. The Zara case analysis proves why outsourcing works for them.

Implications for Outsourcing

The philosophy of core competences has led companies to focus on one key activity and outsourcing many others, without thinking through the strategic consequences.

Instead, the activities that have fit and are tailored to the company’s position should not be outsourced. The fewer elements that are in the company’s value chain, the fewer opportunities there are to establish tailoring, trade-offs, and fit, meaning the less defensible the competitive advantage. 

(Shortform note: this contributes to how manufacturing becomes a commodity – there are few value added activities beyond pure production, which then becomes a competition on price.

Continuity of Strategy

The last component of strategy is continuity. Companies need breathing room to hone their activities and develop competitive advantage over time. Strategy isn’t a stir fry, it’s a stew – it takes time for the flavors and textures to develop.

  • The richly developed strategies of IKEA or Southwest took years, decades to hone. 
  • Strategies often begin with 2 or 3 essential choices, then adding additional activities to extend the fit.

Continuity strengthens a company’s position in three ways:

  • Branding and customer relationships: customers will know what the company stands for, and what needs they can and can’t meet.
  • Dell had suppliers co-locate warehouses nearby
  • (Shortform example: Amazon works with manufacturers to repackage goods in shipping-friendly forms)
  • Team and internal culture: hiring for cultural fit and training employees improves. People make better decisions that fit company strategy

It takes years to implement a strategy. Switching strategies too often is value destroying, causing whiplash in the org and dismantling of value chains.

M aintaining Strategy

Continuity doesn’t mean an organization should stand still. As long as there is stability in the core value proposition, there should be innovation in how it’s delivered. The consistency of delivery and supply shown in the Zara case study proves how important this is.

First, companies must stay on the frontier of operational effectiveness. You must assimilate best practices that do not conflict with your strategy or cause negative trade-offs. Think about how Zara might accomplish a faster supply chain than competitors in the Zara case analysis.

  • BMW embraced OE improvements to decrease design time, but stopped short of steps that would remove its unique design language.

Second, you must change whenever there are ways to extend your value proposition or better ways to deliver it .

  • Reuter started with spreading market information through pigeons, then moving onto telegraph and the Internet.
  • Netflix began with direct to customer movie DVDs, then switched to Internet streaming as soon as it became feasible.

The Zara case study can help you understand the implications of outsourcing, and weigh costs and benefits to your plan. If outsourcing or manufacturing questions are a part of your business strategy, Porter’s Zara case study is a great example.

———End of Preview———

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Here's what you'll find in our full Understanding Michael Porter summary :

  • How Porter's famous Five Forces help you analyze every industry
  • How IKEA, Southwest Airlines, and Zara have ironclad, defensible strategies
  • Why the best companies reject opportunities to focus on what they know
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Home » Management Case Studies » Case Study of Zara: A Better Fashion Business Model

Case Study of Zara: A Better Fashion Business Model

Zara is one of the most well known brands in the world and is also one of the largest international fashion companies. They are the third largest brand in the garment industry and are a unit of Inditex . It their flagship range of chain stores and are headquartered in Spain. Zara opened its first outlet in Spain in 1975. The headquarters of the company is based in Galicia. There are more than 2600 stores across 73 countries in the world. The Zara clothing line accounts for a huge bulk of its parent group’s revenues. There are other clothing brands owned by Inditex such as Kiddy ´s Class (children’s fashion), Pull and Bear (youth casual clothes), Massimo Dutti (quality and conventional fashion), Bershka (avant-garde clothing), Stradivarius (trendy garments for young woman), Oysho (undergarment chain) and Zara Home (household textiles). Inditex owns all Zara outlets except for places where they are not allowed ownership of stores (that’s where Franchises step in).

Zara's Business Model

Zara is renowned for coming up with products on a short timescale instead of taking forever. They are known for taking around 2 weeks to develop products and have been known to come up with around 10,000 new designs every year (which is an industry record). They have bucked the trend by making productions in Europe instead of shifting their entire production to Third World or Developing countries. However some of their clothes are manufactured in parts of Asia due to the fact that they have a longer shelf life. They make most of their own products inside Spain or other European Countries as they own a large number of factories in both Spain and Portugal. They also don’t have to depend on anyone else as they can get everything done by themselves.

Zara is unique in the way that it does not spend money on marketing and instead concentrates on opening new stores instead. Their brave experiments have led them to be labeled as one of the most innovative retailers in the world.

Zara started out with low priced products which were pale imitations of high end fashion products. This move led to Zara being a smashing success and allowed them to expand by opening more stores in Spain. The company management also managed to reduce the time it took to create new designs and came up with the term “instant fashions” which allowed them to capitalize on new trends really fast. Zara is known to use teams of designers instead of individuals.

Zara has to face a lot of competition from H&M, Gap and Benetton internationally. Fortunately Zara is considered to be more fashionable than the rest of the brands despite the fact that its price is less than Benetton and Gap. H&M is still cheaper than Zara but is equally fashionable as Zara. Gap and Benetton are less fashionable and more pricy.

Zara’s ‘Fast Fashion’ Business Model

Zara’s business model is basically based on the principle that it can sell “medium quality fashion clothing at affordable prices”. Basically vertical integration and the ability to come up with a quick-response is a key factor to Zara’s successful business model otherwise they would be no where without it. The process for Zara has been designed in such a way that it has the various functions within the business system such as designing, sourcing and manufacturing, distribution and retailing. They do all of these themselves and that is one reason why their growth is at a good rate. However what goes up must come down and Zara is not immune to the problems in the world. The way they operate can also prove to be their undoing due to the model they are currently utilizing. The fact that they have their own distribution center and manufacturing unit is a very weak point. This can be discussed further in this document.

The management at Zara have come up four fundamental success factors: short cycle time for creation of product, small quantity per product (and not too much of the same stock), extensive variety of product every season (so that users can choose easily) as well as a huge investment in information and communication technology to allow them to stay on track .

Zara knows what its customers want by tracking their preferences on a year round basis. They have their own team of designers who have been recruited fresh out of fashion school. It is not a tough job to tell them what they want based on the input they receive. They make around a limited quantity of clothes based on the 11000 various items designed by its in-house staff. Zara does not make any losses as they only order a limited quantity of each item which they believe is stylish and will be more restricted season wise. For example if they have miniskirts in design they will only be available for a short time due to the short summer period in Europe. Other clothes which can work the year around and for which the trend does not change are outsourced to Asia as the cost won’t be so high. The outsourcing operation is very handy mainly because these clothes have a longer shelf life. It does not take a long time for the clothes to be prepared as it merely takes around 4 weeks total for the whole process: from design to the finished product in the stores.

The fact that Zara knows what sort of trends are there in the market and are quick enough to change their strategy to match the trends in the fashion industry gives them a huge advantage. They are able to modify their timetable easily to adjust for a change in the trends in the market. Normally it takes around 8 to 12 months for any normal retailer to forecast trends and come up with a style and send it for production. They are unable to match what Zara does and they end up losing big time. Even if a style fails to sell much, Zara can easily sell the clothes on a discount. The fact that they quantity of clothes manufactured was so low that they lose much. Their low volume strategy has helped them have a very low number of discount sales every year as compared to a high rate for the rest of the industry.

However this leads to higher costs which is a disadvantage but then they don’t have to worry about having higher inventories. This method allows for a low inventory and high profit margins. They don’t save any money here with costs but then they get the maximum out of their clothing line. A problem they face is the fact that since Zara controls everything it is not easy for them to expand or relocate as they have to stay put in one place or the whole operation will suffer and the goods will cost more to distribute.

Zara’s business model is wonderful in the sense that it has a very fashion forward line as they know which trends to cash in on. They seem to have the midas touch of turning everything into gold. Their policy is to have a mostly young and fashion conscious staff so that they will also be able to double as trend setters. If for instance a certain item in a store sells well then the management decides to sell the same item in other locations as well. The key is that most of the items are in short supply and people presume that there is a shortage of items which ends up making consumers want to buy more.

A key factor in Zara’s success is the fact that it has sourced its products from the right places. They have based their procurement offices in a couple of fashionable cities in the world. This allows them to witness the trends first hand and then to quickly come up with a solution of their own. They don’t buy all the raw products on their own as they use one of their parent group’s procurement units to do all it’s purchasing. One clever move on their part is that they buy most of their fabric in grey so that there is greater flexibility. It doesn’t take long for the fabric to be prepared.

The main distribution artery is in Spain where they have their biggest distribution center. They also have some smaller distribution centers in countries such as Argentina, Brazil and Mexico. The problem with the distribution center is that it is purely based in Spain and does not have the capacity for a heavy load. It is a huge distribution center and occupies around 500,000 square feet in total. They only have the capability of processing around 60,000 folded garments in an hour. They need to find a new distribution center or increase their operations so that they can save more time. However the biggest advantage for them is the fact that they have vertical integration which allows them to manufacture and distribute their own stuff without having to be at the mercy of any supplier. It is not tough to move any of their products as they have their own railway network which allows them to move goods easily to its distribution center. Once the goods are ready they are shipped out immediately though the shipping schedule is only twice a week. European stores get their goods early (around 24-36 hours) while other destinations get them within 2 days. This system has allowed them to achieve a very high level of accuracy in its shipments. The other good thing is that the outlets don’t take long to display the new outfits once they reach their destination and this allows them to show new stock to their customers. The clothes are also coded according to their color so that the staff knows where to place them. This makes it easier for the customers to go around color matching the items they want to buy.

Problems with Zara’s Business Model

Zara is facing a large number of issues which can cause them a number of problems in the future. Despite the fact that Zara has a consistent business system which gives them a competitive advantage it is always in the danger of tanking badly. Zara’s biggest advantage is the fact that its economies of scale are really good and that they have been able to ramp up their distribution system. The continued growth is good for them in every way. They have been helped a lot by their expansion in the international market . However their growth in the international market will be curtailed due to the reason that Zara has a very centralized logistics model. It is understandable that Zara has to expand its distribution centers and to increase its capacity. Zara has its main distribution center in Spain and it won’t be easy going trying to expand when their base is only in Spain.

This will affect their plans to go international and to target more regions. They can’t simply survive with a European presence alone. It is true that they do have a presence in other countries but then it is not as much as it should be. They have a huge presence in Spain but quite limited when it comes to other countries. They can easily target the North American region where they don’t have much of a presence compared to the huge size of the region. The problem is that there are a lot of outlets there and a lot of competition coupled with the need for plus sized clothing, high cost of operations and a very mature market. Zara needs to come up with a strategy so they can compete very aggressively over there. They can also target South America but the problem is that it is not a very stable region and any geopolitical problems can lead to profits being low. A good market would be the ever reliable Middle East where Zara already has a small presence. However with talks of revolution in the air and other geo political problems it can be a risky bet. There are a few countries in the region which will lead it to be profitable but then the market is small compared to other regions. They can easily opt for countries such as the South East Asian markets and South Asia which have a lot of potential.

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2 thoughts on “ Case Study of Zara: A Better Fashion Business Model ”

Dear Abey, Many thanks for your continuing efforts to help learners. I’ve just come across your website and really amazed at the wealth and variety of topics which are covered in your business cases. Very helpful, indeed. God bless you for all the kind things you are doing. Alex

Thank you for this valuable insight. Quite informative. Helped me a lot.

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  • Harvard Business School →
  • Faculty & Research →
  • April 2003 (Revised December 2006)
  • HBS Case Collection

ZARA: Fast Fashion

  • Format: Print
  • | Pages: 35

Related Work

  • Faculty Research
  • ZARA: Fast Fashion  By: Pankaj Ghemawat and Jose Luis Nueno

Zara Website Redesign

hey.png

This project is focused on redesigning Zara’s website to build a quality shopping experience for fashion-forward millennials. Zara is considered one of the topmost valuable brands in today's fashion yet many people report that the in-store shopping experience is 10xs better than the online shopping experience. 

ROLE & RESPONSIBILITIES

UX/UI Designer

Tools Used :  Figma, Trello, Miro

Zara is one of the biggest international fashion companies with nearly 3,000 stores in 96 countries. Zara’s brand value is an estimated $14.7 billion, and the fast fashion retail giant generated $21.9 billion in sales as of June 27, 2020. Zara operates its stores and online platforms under four core values: beauty, clarity, functionality and sustainability. 

December 2021

With such a high reputation and with the increase of retail shoppers due to the pandemic not only was the navigation difficult but there were opportunities to condense the information architecture and increase online customers.

Lack of reviews, unrealistic images and the UI's disorganization are the main problems of the online shopping experience. Balancing the aesthetics and practicality of the website would provide online shoppers,  a convenient shopping experience.

zara website case study

Homepage Annotations

Navigation Annotations

Product Page Annotations

Real fedback from Instagram

review 3.jpeg

RESEARCH 

Using a research plan the key is to identify user pains and prove or disprove our assumptions. While exploring Zara as a team, there is potential design ideas with the navigation and homepage. However, I knew it would not get far without insight from Zara's target audience-online shoppers. I selected 13 users to participate in an interview and perform user tasks on Zara's original website.

Research Types: 1–1 Interviews, via Zoom

Total Participants: 13 Total (6 Men, 7 Women)

Age Groups: 18–30 years old (All Millennials)

Below are some of the key takeaways 

Group 271.png

Participants quotes describing what they believe is difficult about Zara's website. 

We also decided to research and analyze the strengths and weaknesses of direct and in-direct competitors to the Zara site. 

Screen Shot 2021-05-17 at 10.13.08 PM.png

Pixie market:

Modern aesthetic for it's website

Only sells clothing to women 

Call to action buttons stand out

Bad shipping, poor return policy, poor customer service

​Vegan beauty products are tailored to meet the needs of different ethnicities

Eccentric energetic vibe

UNDERSTANDING THE USER

Kyra is a social media manager in Atlanta. Since the start of the pandemic, she’d been working remotely and shopping fashion statement pieces remotely. She depends on detailed reviews and realistic images when shopping online because some well-known fashion brands have disappointed her with products that were well her expectations.

After compiling and analyzing data, the user persona of Kyra Walker was created.

zara-user-persona.png

THE GAME PLAN

As identified above, there are two areas in which can help give Zara's website users a more personalized shopping experience. Balancing its aesthetics and practicality.

All elements that needed to be included in the new information architecture for the re-design is shown below  A card sort was conducted and as a team, a single card sort was agreed upon to lay the groundwork for designing our new website.

Card Sorting

card sorting - zara.jpg

Style Guide

Sleek and minimalistic while still keeping a high fashion aesthetic. The colors are neutral, timeless and could go with any and all collections.

style guide.png

Sketched Wireframes

homepage, discounts, reviews, collections, customer service are the features that were incorporated in each of the team sketches.

Final Group Project - Sketches.webp

Low Fidelity Wireframes

Simplified Homepage

Product page/Reviews section

High Fidelity Wireframes

Hero white zara.png

USER TEST FEEDBACK

The feedback received was overall very warm. The users felt that the website was fresh, honest, and easy on the eyes. Many users informed us that they primarily shop on their phones so we ensured that viewing the website on mobile was just as easy and simple to navigate as desktop.

TITLE OF THE CALLOUT BLOCK

In the future.

In the future, we hope to focus on making returns easy for online shoppers through a paperless return system. The paperless return system would utilize QR codes sent to the customer’s email and easily scannable off a phone, all for free. We would test to see if free returns would be a cost effective way to build trust with online shoppers.

Frontier Communications >

Kate DeAgostino's profile

Illustrator

Zara Case Study

Case Study redesign Usability ux zara

Creative Fields

zara website case study

Interaction Design

zara website case study

No use is allowed without explicit permission from owner

  • Information Systems

U.S. Department of the Treasury

U.s. department of the treasury, irs release new analysis showing the high return on investment from inflation reduction act resources.

More comprehensive estimates show transformative investments, if sustained, will result in $851 billion in additional revenue through 2034

WASHINGTON – Today the U.S. Department of the Treasury and Internal Revenue Service (IRS) released a new analysis showing the high return on the Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) investment in rebuilding and modernizing the IRS. Taking a more comprehensive approach to evaluating the transformational initiatives enabled by the IRA, the IRS estimates in a new paper “Return on Investment: Re-Examining Revenue Estimates for IRS Funding” that the IRA as enacted would increase revenue by as much as $561 billion over 2024-2034, substantially more than earlier estimates. If IRA funding is renewed when it runs out, as the Administration has proposed, estimated revenues would be as much as $851 billion. 

 Previous IRS estimates of IRA revenues were limited to revenues generated by direct enforcement activities resulting from higher enforcement staffing. This narrow focus does not capture the full range of ways that the technology, data, and service improvements made possible by the IRA will increase revenues. A full accounting of the revenue raised by this transformation requires a more comprehensive examination of the potential revenue impacts of higher funding.

  “The IRS’s previous estimates of revenue generated by IRA funding were limited to revenues directly resulting from increased enforcement staff­ing. Consequently, the estimates did not present a complete picture of the revenue benefits of the innovative investments we are making under the IRA SOP [Strategic Operating Plan,]”  the new paper concludes. “The approach ignored many activities that will influence revenue, including enhanc­ing services to improve voluntary compliance, modernizing technology, and adopting analytic advances that can dramati­cally improve productivity. It also ignored the deterrence effect of compliance activities on taxpayers’ behavior. To account for the potential revenue impact of the full array of investments contemplated in the IRA SOP, we need to look at the effects on revenue collection in a more comprehensive way.” 

“IT modernization offers a wide array of potential revenue benefits. [E]xpanded data intake capacity and productivity will help increase compliance; improved audit selection and collection planning can increase the productivity of enforcement activities,” the paper finds. “A decade ago, the State of California undertook to modernize its tax administration infrastructure. Many of the changes im­plemented are similar to those we are undertaking now […] The California experience demonstrates that these improvements can substantially increase revenue.”

The new estimates released today are a first step in developing more comprehensive revenue estimates for IRS funding. They incorporate the benefits of improved technology, data analytics, and service, as well as the impact of deterrence on wealthy taxpayers who are audited. The estimates represent an important step forward and highlight the need for additional research: Treasury and the IRS will continue to study these issues and encourage outside research on these important topics as well.

The new findings also show what’s at stake in proposals to repeal or reduce this historic investment in the IRS. A $20 billion rescission would reduce revenues by over $100 billion. While the IRS would still be able to ramp up enforcement against big corporations and wealthy taxpayers who do not pay what they owe in the next several years, the rescissions would cause IRA enforcement funding to run out in 2029— about two years earlier than it would have under the IRA as enacted—reducing the revenue raised in 2029 and subsequent years. The Administration has proposed extending and maintaining IRS investments after the IRA funds are exhausted, which would enable the IRS to collect $851 billion over 2024-2034. Conversely, additional rescissions of IRA resources or cuts to IRS base funding would further reduce revenue collections and could reverse taxpayer service improvements that have already been made and even endanger near-term enforcement efforts.

The IRA investments in the IRS were necessary because a decade of deep funding cuts resulted in unacceptable service levels, prevented technological upgrades, and undermined enforcement, particularly efforts focused on wealthy people and big corporations that do not pay what they owe. Driven by these funding cuts, the audit rate on millionaires fell by more than 70% from 2010 to 2019, and the audit rate on large corporations fell by more than 50% over the same period. The tax gap—the difference between taxes owed and taxes paid—has grown to more than $600 billion annually.

The IRA is enabling the IRS to reverse this trend and make wealthy taxpayers and big corporations pay the taxes they owe. Already, the IRS has announced a suite of enforcement efforts targeted at wealthy taxpayers and big corporations, including expanded audits of the biggest corporations and complex partnerships; a focus on foreign-owned corporations that underpay their U.S. taxes; and a campaign to collect tax debt from 1,600 millionaires with at least $250,000 in back taxes that has recovered more than $500 million to date. At the same time, the IRS is implementing the IRA consistent with Secretary of the Treasury Janet L. Yellen’s commitment that audit rates for small businesses and taxpayers earning less than $400,000 will not increase relative to historic levels. 

Furthermore, all taxpayers will benefit from the far-reaching initiatives outlined in the  IRA Strategic Operating Plan (SOP) . The SOP details how the IRS will use IRA resources to provide taxpayers with world-class customer service, clearer guidance on how to correctly file taxes, increased options for filing electronically, and robust online accounts so that individuals and businesses can file quickly and independently. Taxpayers will have the tools, information and assistance needed to get their tax filings right the first time—both in paying what they owe and claiming the tax benefits for which they are eligible. 

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The State of LGTBQ Inclusion in Video Games

The 2024 GLAAD Gaming Report maps the quantity, quality and diversity of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer (LGBTQ) characters in video games during the 2023 calendar year. Our State of LGBTQ Inclusivity in Gaming Report, measure LGBTQ representation in these forms of media. Similarly, our Social Media Safety Index documents LGBTQ safety across social media platforms. We are transparent about our measurement and are collaborative with industry leaders and businesses. This report was created to educate the game industry on the current state of LGBTQ representation that exists, make a facts-based business case for LGBTQ inclusion, and provide a playbook for more authentic representation.

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Fake and Explicit Images of Taylor Swift Started on 4chan, Study Says

The people on 4chan who created the images of Ms. Swift thought of it as a sort of game, the researchers said.

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Taylor Swift, wearing a white knit cap and a red jacket with the number 87 in white.

By Tiffany Hsu

Images of Taylor Swift that had been generated by artificial intelligence and had spread widely across social media in late January probably originated as part of a recurring challenge on one of the internet’s most notorious message boards , according to a new report.

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Open this article in the New York Times Audio app on iOS.

Graphika, a research firm that studies disinformation, traced the images back to one community on 4chan, a message board known for sharing hate speech, conspiracy theories and, increasingly, racist and offensive content created using A.I.

The people on 4chan who created the images of the singer did so in a sort of game, the researchers said — a test to see whether they could create lewd (and sometimes violent) images of famous female figures.

The synthetic Swift images spilled out onto other platforms and were viewed millions of times . Fans rallied to Ms. Swift’s defense, and lawmakers demanded stronger protections against A.I.-created images.

Graphika found a thread of messages on 4chan that encouraged people to try to evade safeguards set up by image generator tools, including OpenAI’s DALL-E, Microsoft Designer and Bing Image Creator. Users were instructed to share “tips and tricks to find new ways to bypass filters” and were told, “Good luck, be creative.”

Sharing unsavory content via games allows people to feel connected to a wider community, and they are motivated by the cachet they receive for participating, experts said. Ahead of the midterm elections in 2022, groups on platforms like Telegram, WhatsApp and Truth Social engaged in a hunt for election fraud, winning points or honorary titles for producing supposed evidence of voter malfeasance. (True proof of ballot fraud is exceptionally rare .)

In the 4chan thread that led to the fake images of Ms. Swift, several users received compliments — “beautiful gen anon,” one wrote — and were asked to share the prompt language used to create the images. One user lamented that a prompt produced an image of a celebrity who was clad in a swimsuit rather than nude.

Rules posted by 4chan that apply sitewide do not specifically prohibit sexually explicit A.I.-generated images of real adults.

“These images originated from a community of people motivated by the ‘challenge’ of circumventing the safeguards of generative A.I. products, and new restrictions are seen as just another obstacle to ‘defeat,’” Cristina López G., a senior analyst at Graphika, said in a statement. “It’s important to understand the gamified nature of this malicious activity in order to prevent further abuse at the source.”

Ms. Swift is “far from the only victim,” Ms. López G. said. In the 4chan community that manipulated her likeness, many actresses, singers and politicians were featured more frequently than Ms. Swift.

OpenAI said in a statement that the explicit images of Ms. Swift were not generated using its tools, noting that it filters out the most explicit content when training its DALL-E model. The company also said it uses other safety guardrails, such as denying requests that ask for a public figure by name or seek explicit content.

Microsoft said that it was “continuing to investigate these images” and added that it had “strengthened our existing safety systems to further prevent our services from being misused to help generate images like them.” The company prohibits users from using its tools to create adult or intimate content without consent and warns repeat offenders that they may be blocked.

Fake pornography generated with software has been a blight since at least 2017, affecting unwilling celebrities , government figures , Twitch streamers , students and others. Patchy regulation leaves few victims with legal recourse; even fewer have a devoted fan base to drown out fake images with coordinated “Protect Taylor Swift” posts.

After the fake images of Ms. Swift went viral, Karine Jean-Pierre, the White House press secretary, called the situation “alarming” and said lax enforcement by social media companies of their own rules disproportionately affected women and girls. She said the Justice Department had recently funded the first national helpline for people targeted by image-based sexual abuse, which the department described as meeting a “rising need for services” related to the distribution of intimate images without consent. SAG-AFTRA , the union representing tens of thousands of actors, called the fake images of Ms. Swift and others a “theft of their privacy and right to autonomy.”

Artificially generated versions of Ms. Swift have also been used to promote scams involving Le Creuset cookware . A.I. was used to impersonate President Biden’s voice in robocalls dissuading voters from participating in the New Hampshire primary election. Tech experts say that as A.I. tools become more accessible and easier to use, audio spoofs and videos with realistic avatars could be created in mere minutes.

Researchers said the first sexually explicit A.I. image of Ms. Swift on the 4chan thread appeared on Jan. 6, 11 days before they were said to have appeared on Telegram and 12 days before they emerged on X. 404 Media reported on Jan. 25 that the viral Swift images had jumped into mainstream social media platforms from 4chan and a Telegram group dedicated to abusive images of women. The British news organization Daily Mail reported that week that a website known for sharing sexualized images of celebrities posted the Swift images on Jan. 15.

For several days, X blocked searches for Taylor Swift “with an abundance of caution so we can make sure that we were cleaning up and removing all imagery,” said Joe Benarroch, the company’s head of business operations.

Audio produced by Tally Abecassis .

Tiffany Hsu reports on misinformation and disinformation and its origins, movement and consequences. She has been a journalist for more than two decades. More about Tiffany Hsu

Explore Our Coverage of Artificial Intelligence

News  and Analysis

OpenAI announced that it was releasing a new version of ChatGPT that would remember all prior conversations with users  so it could use that information in future chats.

The F.T.C. outlawed unwanted robocalls generated by A.I. , amid growing concerns over election disinformation and consumer fraud facilitated by the technology.

Google has released Gemini, a smartphone app that behaves like a talking digital assistant as well as a conversational chatbot .

The Age of A.I.

Amid an intractable real estate crisis, fake luxury houses offer a delusion of one’s own. Here’s how A.I. is remodeling the fantasy home .

New technology has made it easier to insert digital, realistic-looking versions of soda cans and shampoo on videos on social media. A growing group of creators and advertisers is jumping at the chance for an additional revenue stream .

A start-up called Perplexity shows what’s possible for a search engine built from scratch with A.I. Are the days of turning to Google for answers numbered ?

Chafing at their dependence on the chipmaker Nvidia, Amazon, Google, Meta and Microsoft are racing to build A.I. chips of their own .

A.I. image generators are trained on other people’s artwork. Are the tools violating copyright in the process? A series of tests run with the technology suggests as much .

IMAGES

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    Solution: Redesign the existing Zara website. Any business must have a well-designed website with a user-friendly interface and navigation to establish a strong web presence and generate online revenue. Zara website violates many UX heuristics and WCAG guidelines, resulting in various usability issues.

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    Our overall heuristic evaluation of the Zara app with an average score of 3/4. While this translates to a Major Usability Problem, the screen redesigns were fairly simple iterations we believe would have a significant impact on your shopping experience and in turn more sales for Zara.

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  19. PDF Zara'S Case Study

    ZARA'S CASE STUDY The Strategy of the Fast Fashion Pioneer Ana Mafalda Ricardo Morgado Costa Case study submitted as partial requirement for the conferral of Master in Management Supervisor: Prof. Mónica Ferreira, Invited Professor, ISCTE Business School, Marketing, Operations and General Management Department September 2017

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    Zara is a Spanish apparel retailer that is high-end with affordable pricing. Its beautiful, edgy, and editorial looks attract millennial men and women looking for high-quality clothing. Quick to follow current fashion trends, they are a brand that is always changing and adjusting to consumer interests. About the Project: This case study was ...

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  27. Fake and Explicit Images of Taylor Swift Started on 4chan, Study Says

    Researchers said the first sexually explicit A.I. image of Ms. Swift on the 4chan thread appeared on Jan. 6, 11 days before they were said to have appeared on Telegram and 12 days before they ...