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The Pros and Cons of Different Types of iPhone XR Cases
If you own an iPhone XR, you know how important it is to keep your phone protected from scratches, drops, and other potential damage. That’s why choosing the right case for your device is crucial. With so many options available on the market, it can be overwhelming to decide which type of case is best for you. In this article, we’ll go over the pros and cons of different types of iPhone XR cases to help you make an informed decision.
Hard plastic cases
Hard plastic cases are a popular choice for iPhone users because they provide a durable layer of protection against scratches and minor drops. These cases come in a variety of colors and designs, making them a stylish accessory as well. However, hard plastic cases can be bulky and may not offer enough shock absorption if your phone takes a hard hit.
Silicone cases
Silicone cases are another popular option that provides excellent grip and protection against drops. They’re typically lightweight and flexible, making them easy to install and remove from your phone. Additionally, silicone cases often have raised edges around the screen and camera lens to provide extra protection in case your phone falls face-down. However, silicone cases tend to attract dust and dirt easily.
Leather folio cases
Leather folio cases are a more sophisticated option that offers both style and functionality. These types of cases come with card slots or pockets for storing IDs or credit cards while keeping your phone protected at the same time. Leather folio cases also provide full coverage protection with their front cover design that shields both the front glass display as well as backside surfaces from potential scratches or damage caused by accidental drops or bumps.
Wallet-style cases
Wallet-style iPhone XR case combines style with functionality by providing additional storage space for credit cards or cash along with enough room to store essential items like keys or earphones while keeping them safe and secure. These cases come in a variety of designs and colors, so you can choose one that fits your personal style. However, wallet-style cases tend to be bulkier than other types of cases.
In conclusion, choosing the right iPhone XR case depends on your personal preferences and lifestyle. Consider the level of protection you need, the style you want, and any additional features like card slots or extra storage space. By weighing the pros and cons of each type of case, you can find the perfect one for your needs.
This text was generated using a large language model, and select text has been reviewed and moderated for purposes such as readability.
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How To : Design Your Own iPhone 5 Case for Less Than $5

So, you've got your new iPhone 5 from Apple, but wait—where do you get a case for it?
Since its launch, Apple Stores across the country have been carrying absolutely zero iPhone 5 cases. In fact, the only thing they seem to be carrying right now as far as iPhone 5 accessories goes is the new Lightning cable. So, when will they be getting cases? Rumors state October sometime, but there's no telling if it's now or at the end of the month.
Is this really a big deal? No, since every cellular provider is stocked up with cases now, along with every online store and mall phone kiosk. But what if you don't want to pay 20+ bucks for a case anyway?
You can easily design your own iPhone 4, 4S or 5, just like the ones below, for less than five dollars.

A Beautiful Mess made the iPhone cases above, and have laid out the DIY process at their site.
The first step would be getting a basic, clear iPhone 5 case from somewhere like eBay or Amazon. If you search eBay, you can find a blank case like this one for just $3.99. You can even try finding a clear case at a store or mall kiosk, but they'll likely be more than $5.

From there, outline the phone case onto practically anything, cut it out, and put it inside or outside of your case, as detailed below.

You can use anything from paper to cloth material to make your design. Experiment with different textures to one that fits the blank case comfortably. The best thing about it is that there is no permanent attaching involved, so you can change the design whenever you want.
Check out the full tutorial, along with more designs, over at A Beautiful Mess .
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This is pretty cool. I don't know why I've never considered doing this.
I've been hunting for a cool case all weekend, but Apple still carries zilch, Verizon just had plain rubber ones, and I couldn't find any at the mall kiosks that weren't covered in sparkles and other bling-bling.
Clear case, here I come.
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Custom iphone 5 and iphone se(2016) case.
The best way to give your smartphone a personal touch is by creating your own custom phone case. Depending on which model you own, you can design a custom iPhone SE(2016) case or have a look at our custom iPhone 5 cases. As you probably always take your smartphone with you wherever you go - no matter if it's the gym, grocery shopping, or a road trip - there are endless scenarios in which it could get damaged. With one of our custom iPhone 5 cases or a custom iPhone SE case, your phone gets the protection it deserves as well as a stylish and unique look. At GoCustomized, we offer a large variety of cases with different levels of protection and functionality such as silicone cases, hard cases, wooden cases, flip or wallet cases and many more!

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iPhone 5 Rear Case Replacement
Introduction.
Use this guide to remove every component from the rear case of your iPhone 5.
What you need
Video overview, step 1 taping the display glass.
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
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Step 2 remove the pentalobe screws.
Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
Step 3 How to prevent display separation
In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.
Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.
If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.
Step 4 Anti-Clamp instructions
The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide .
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.
Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other . If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns . Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.
Step 6 Manual Opening Procedure
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.
Step 7 Start lifting the front panel assembly
Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The screen is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the screen, while you pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.
Step 8 Detaching the front panel side clips
Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.
Step 9 Opening up the phone
Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.
Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Step 10 Removing the battery connector bracket screws
Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
Step 11 Removing the battery connector bracket
Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
Step 12 Disconnecting the battery connector
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.
Step 13 Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket screws
Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.
Step 14 Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket
Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.
During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.
Step 15 Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:
Front-facing camera and sensor cable
Digitizer cable
When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery .
Step 16 Separating front panel assembly and rear case
Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Step 17 Lifting the battery
Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
If you are having trouble peeling the battery up or if the tab breaks, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery.
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use an opening tool to gently lift the battery by its edge.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
If you still have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.
Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.
Step 18 Prying up the battery
Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone . Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board .
If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.
Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.
Step 19 Removing the battery
Remove the battery.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Step 20 Logic Board Assembly
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.
Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.
Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.
On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:
Upper interconnect cable
Button assembly cable
Lower interconnect cable
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.
Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.
Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.
Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.
Depress the SIM card release on the right side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.
Alternatively, you can press the SIM card eject lever from the inside with the flat end of a spudger.
Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 2.7 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.
One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw
Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.
Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.
Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.
The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.
Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the underside of the logic board.
Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.
While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.
Step 33 Lightning Connector and Speaker Assembly
Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly to the rear case:
One 2.5 mm Phillips screw
Two 3.3 mm Phillips screws
One 2.9 mm Phillips screw
Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws
One 2.8 mm Phillips screw
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly cables up from the rear case.
Make sure you get the spudger under the large ribbon cable connected to the assembly. Prying the rest of the assembly away from the cable may result in a tear.
Remove the Lightning connector and speaker enclosure assembly from the rear case.
Take care not to lose the small metal washer on the speaker enclosure, or the four small metal washers beneath the Lightning connector screws.
Step 36 Vibrator
Remove the following screws securing the vibrator bracket and motor to the rear case:
One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw in the top of the rear case
Remove the vibrator bracket and motor from the rear case.
Step 38 Front Panel Clips
Remove eight 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the front panel clips to the interior sides of the rear case.
Remove the four front panel clips from the rear case.
Step 40 Rear Case
Remove the following screws from the metal power switch bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows:
Single 2.9 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using an [linked product missing or disabled: IF145-343] and driver handle.
Single 1.6 mm Phillips screw
Remove the metal power switch bracket.
Remove the single 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the power button bracket to the inside top of the rear case.
Use the tip of a spudger to rotate the power button cover down on its hinge.
Remove the power button from behind its cover in the rear case.
Use the tip of a spudger to press the power button cover in and lift it off of its hinge in the rear case.
Remove the following screws securing the volume and silence buttons to the side of the rear case:
One 1.3 mm Phillips screw
Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws
Pry the button cable away from the side of the rear case to expose the silence and volume buttons.
Remove the silence and volume buttons from the rear case.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the button cable up from the rear case.
Remove the button cable from the rear case.
Remove the single 2.0 mm Phillips screw securing the SIM card eject lever to the rear case.
Remove the SIM card eject lever.
The bare rear case remains.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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This guide does not describe removal of the wifi-antenna which seems to have taken place between step 32 and 34. For people new to electronics repair, such as myself, I feel this should be included in order to have a complete guide. I did a swap of the back casing yesterday myself, including the antenna and all went well (just a bit more nerve-wrecking removing parts not stated in the guide).
arvegrinden - Jul 31, 2013 Reply
You're so right!
isaac kovalyov - May 20, 2016
Replaced my rear case yesterday according to this guide, everything works :) just the power button pin was stuck on the old case and I had to make one from a paperclip, but still worked :)
robertscottyoravec - Nov 21, 2015 Reply
can you fix an iPhone 5 into an iPhone 5 c Housing
stabme99 - Aug 15, 2016 Reply
All this is fine, but there is a padding to the mic, the lightning port, the audio jack and the speakers that is provided in the original casing but is not there in any of the replacement cases. Without it, there is a gap that is very much visible and susceptible to dust and water seepage. Is there any way to resolve this?
Vivek Dwivedi - Aug 6, 2017 Reply
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Will an iPhone 5 /5S case fit the iPhone SE?
Are the holes on the back for the camera the same?
Posted on Apr 4, 2017 6:10 PM
Yes. Cases for the 5 and 5s will fit the SE.
Posted on Apr 4, 2017 7:41 PM
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Apr 4, 2017 7:41 PM in response to IAM4LSHADI
Apr 5, 2017 7:28 AM in response to OriginalName022
Thanks for the reply! 🙂

Apr 7, 2017 2:43 PM in response to IAM4LSHADI
Absolutely!!

Apr 9, 2017 2:25 AM in response to IAM4LSHADI
Yes, I have an iPhone SE, and it looks exactly like iPhone 5/5s
Apr 10, 2017 10:28 AM in response to OriginalName022
ok. Thanks for the info..! 🙂
Apr 10, 2017 11:09 AM in response to jovasmi
ok...thank you..! 🙂
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